There are many options for establishing and adjusting the ball path and reaction
as it travels down the lane.
Some of these options
are:
ball selections from your arsenal of
balls, ball surface changes, angle adjustments, speed adjustments, and loft
adjustments, and of course, most basically, hand release adjustments that can be
implemented when a specific ball reaction is called for. This section is
focused on primary ways to release the ball to achieve the desired ball
reaction.
There are many ways of releasing your bowling ball. Deciding which is best
suited for you can greatly affect the path of the ball as it is released from
your hand. Which is the right way? The fact is that most of them are right
for specific actions. Each can, and will at times, perform better on the lanes
than the other releases. Adjust your release to fit the situation.
It is important to establish a single, reliable release as the foundation for
your game for a specific lane condition. Your basic release provides the most
accurate release you can consistently deliver on a specific lane condition.
First, some basics
As the ball exits your hand at the moment of release, your hand should continue
toward your target following the intended ball path. Ideally, the inner side
(the soft side) of your elbow should be facing the pins at the moment of
release. Also, it is key to preventing the elbow from rotating away from the
body and “chicken winging” the arm, to keep the inside edge of your elbow near
your body on the forward swing as you release the ball. One concept is to call
the inside of your elbow your “bowling eye”. You should always keep your eye on
the ball as it is released. You can maintain this technique as you focus on
your hand action adjustments. It is important to avoid rotating your entire
arm, only your wrist or hand position when adjusting your rev-rate or power.
Key to any successful adjustment is a commitment toward honest practice and
commit to getting proficient at developing variations to your prime release
technique. To not make that commitment, will most likely be the cause of
stagnation in your game. There is but one way to improving your release, and
that is practice.
Wrist and Finger
Adjustments
In most sports,
advanced players
adjust to
playing
conditions and
situations they
confront.
Golfers select
clubs and/or
adjust their
hand, shoulders
and swing
positions as
they adjust to
changing wind
conditions, the
distance to the
hole, or the
shot they see in
front of them.
Baseball
pitchers throw
the ball slower,
faster, curve or
drop the ball
for different
batters.
Baseball
batters, on the
other hand,
adjust their
stance, how they
hold the bat and
the bat that
helps them
achieve the hit
they are
attempting.
Tennis players
select their
racquet; adjust
their stance,
swing and how
they hold their
racquet to
create the ball
action that
assists them in
achieving the
best shot.
In most sports,
the more tools
players has, and
knowing when
they use them,
the better they
are.
Advanced bowlers
learn how to
select the
appropriate
equipment and
care for it.
They've learned
how to control
their equipment,
and how to read
the conditions
that challenge
them. They
hold the ball
in a manner that
best determines
how to hook the
ball or keep it
from hooking so
much, how to
make the ball
skid further or
shorter before
turning at the
break point.
Advanced
techniques allow
bowlers to
adjust for
changes in lane
pattern changes,
the volume of
lane oil, and
the length of the
oil down the
lane, the lane
surface whether
they are wood or
various synthetics.
Advanced bowlers
even hold and
deliver the ball
according to the
temperature
inside the
bowling center. The list could
continue on, but
the point is
that advanced
bowlers have
learned how to
control the ball
and how it
reacts.
The more you are
exposed to
bowling, the
more you
will notice a
wide variety of
hand and wrist
positions used
by bowlers.
You, naturally,
would hope to
select a
delivery best
suited toward
meeting your
objectives, but
which bowler has
the right wrist
and finger
position?
The answer is
both!
Regardless of
the wide variety
of wrist styles
used in the
delivery, it
turns out that
all of them are
functional in
one manner or
another.
There isn't a
single wrist
position for
every bowler and
all situations.
Each technique
has a purpose
and each should
be part of your
bowling toolbox.
These varied
styles
illustrate the
fact that
bowlers match
their bowling
style, including
their wrist and
finger
adjustments,
according to the
ball surface
they are using,
the lane
conditions and
their bowling
styles. It
is key to your
success that you
should match
your bowling
style, your
wrist and finger
adjustments,
ball surface and
where you play
on the lane.
That is the
secret toward
achieving
success in the
sport of
bowling.
Take a
Closer Look at Your Wrist and Fingers
There are
three movements of the wrist. You can rotate your wrist, move it laterally side
to side, and cup or loosen your wrist position. There are several finger
adjustments to consider: after placing your fingers in the ball, you can spread
or tighten the space of your small finger (pinky) from your ring finger, you can
tuck your little finger to the first or second knuckle, and you can spread or tighten the
space of your index finger from your middle finger. You can adjust the pressure
of your fingers and gripping, and how that action is applied. Finally, you can
combine these adjustments to enhance your ability to control ball action. Wow!
So what does each adjustment do, and when should you make these adjustments?
Bowling release adjustments
During
the
release, your wrist and fingers
positions can be adjusted
without the entire arm rotating. These release techniques include several
variations to your standard release. Hand and wrist adjustments can add or
limit power that augments your release to compensate for changing lane
conditions. An understanding of these techniques adds variables to your game to
overcome changing lane conditions.
To do something really well, you have
to understand it.
You have to really
intimately and completely understand it.
You have to
chew it up, not just quickly swallow it.
Most people don’t take the time to do that,
But those who do find magic.
Rotating the Wrist
There are other considerations other than wrist rotation, but for explanation
purposes, we are only focused on the rotation of the wrist in this discussion.
The wrist moves on three basic planes: rotational, horizontal, and vertical. In
this discussion, we refer only to the rotation around the forearm, and not the
horizontal plane toward or outward from the body.
·
For explanation purposes, refer to the face of a standard clock having
hands.
·
Stand erect and let your hands dangle at your sides with your thumbs outward
from your body. If you imagine the face of the clock, your thumb will be at
around the 3 o' clock position for right-handers or left-handers at 9 o'
clock.
·
It is recommended that right handers will use thumb positions from 4 o' clock
to 11 o' clock (right-handers) and 8 o' clock to 1 o' clock (left-handers).
·
Rotating your hand from under the ball and around to the side of the ball
from your wrist can be used to raise or lower your ball track. Placing your
hand on the side of the ball will cause a lower ball track, and your ball to
go longer before it transitions into its hook phase and increase the hook
drive.Rotating your hand to be placed behind the ball will raise the ball
track, and reduce the hook drive.
·As
cautioned earlier, it is important to maintain the angle of your forearm
when rotating your wrist. You just want to feel a little more of the weight
of the ball on the tip of your index finger as opposed to bending the
knuckle to keep your finger in contact with the ball.
·
To bowl a straight ball,
release the ball with your thumb, ring and middle finger at the 12 o'
clock position. This is a common way of throwing the ball for most
beginners. The ball will roll straight off the fingers, and the ball
will have little or no side rotation.
·
To bowl a “full roller”,
release the ball with your thumb in the 9 o’clock position, and your
ring and middle finger in the 3o’clock position. This is called
the “suitcase” release. The ball will be released and roll along a
line between the thumb and fingers, and track completely around the
ball.
Breaking your wrist (moving your ball in a downward direction) will
further ensure a full roller.
·
To bowl a “3/4-roller”,
release the ball with your thumb in the (rh
- 1 o’clock) (lh - 11 o’clock)
position. The 3/4-roller will rotate around a horizontal plane as it
skids down the lane, and the bowler will achieve a curve or hook ball as
the ball enters the pins. The ball will track close to, and outside, of
the thumb and finger holes. This track is often referred to as a high
tracking release.
·
To bowl a “semi-roller”,
release the ball with your thumb in the (rh 3 o’clock) (lh 9 o’clock)
position. The semi-roller will rotate around a horizontal plane more
than the 3/4-roller as it skids down the lane, hook and enter the pin
deck at a greater angle than the other releases. The ball will track
further away from the thumb and finger holes, and is referred to as a
medium tracking release.
As in the previous discussion concerning wrist rotation, there are other
considerations other than wrist rotation, but for explanation purposes, we are
only focused on the horizontal movement of the hand in this discussion.
The wrist moves on three basic planes: rotation, horizontal, and vertical. In
this discussion, we refer only to the horizontal plane toward or outward from
the body, and not the rotation around the forearm.
·
For explanation purposes, refer to the face of a standard clock having
hands.
·
Stand erect and hold your arm forward and away from the body, and your palms
facing upward. If you imagine the face of the clock, your thumb will be at
around the (rh 3 o' clock) / (lh 9 o’clock) position.
·
It is recommended that right handers will use hand positions from 1 o' clock
to 10 o' clock (right-handers) or 11 o' clock to 2 o' clock (left-handers).
To extend the break point
12 o'clock Release
–
The ball is released with your fingers pointing straight forward in the 12
o’clock position.
As the ball is released, the ball rolls straight up off the fingers with
no horizontal turn of the wrist. The ball will roll straight forward,
end over end, and the ball’s break point (the point where the ball
transitions from skid to hook) will be extended. This release is best
suited for dryer lanes.
To
curve or hook the ball
10:30 Release
–
The ball is released with fingers angled horizontally pointing at the 10:30
position.
As the ball is released, the ball travel is toward the pins, but the
horizontal rotation of the ball is toward the 10:30 position. The ball
will continue to rotate in this direction until the break point, where
the increased friction between the ball and lane surfaces causes the
ball to change direction toward the 10:30 direction.
This is, perhaps, the most frequently used wrist positions used by
bowlers. This release would be used for freshly dressed house patterns
and normal lane conditions.
9 o'clock Release
–
The ball is released with fingers angled horizontally, pointing at the 9
o’clock position.
As the ball is released, the ball travel is toward the pins, but the
horizontal rotation of the ball is toward the 9:00 o’clock direction.
The ball will continue to rotate in this direction until the break
point, where the increased friction between the ball and lane surface
causes the ball to sharply change direction toward the 9:00 direction.
The ball rotates and hooks more.
This release would be most appropriately used for wet lanes and bowlers
playing deep to maintain higher angles as the lane track dry up.
Cupped
release
–
Moving the ball up and back to create a greater angle between the hand
and forearm creates a cupped release. Holding the ball in this position
during the ball swing places additional rotation on the ball as it is
released, and makes the ball roll sooner. Additional rotation can
create a greater inward drive as the ball rolls into the pocket.
This technique is especially useful on heavier-conditioned lanes or
where carrydown is an issue.
To roll a straight ball
Straight release
–
Holding the wrist in line with the forearm, not bent either upward or
downward, is known as a straight release. The straight release is
considered as a medium wrist position, and is, perhaps, the most common
and basic wrist position. The straight wrist position is best used
for medium lane conditions, and a good starting position.
Broken release
–
Angling the wrist downward in a broken position is known as a broken
wrist position. Releasing the ball from this position greatly
reduces the rotational component of the ball due to the weakened finger
lift of the ball as it is released. Releasing the ball with
weakened rotation of the ball delays the breakpoint, and the hooking
action is either delayed or weakened as well. This release can be
used whenever you want to straighten out the ball path: for drier lane
conditions or corner pin spares.
Gripping the ball
includes inserting your middle and ring fingers
and then your
thumb into the gripping
holes. The other two fingers, the index and
pinkie finger, placement can be adjusted and have an
affect on the reaction of the ball travel in the
same manner as wrist position adjustments.
Both the wrist and finger
positions are combined in different combinations to
influence the ball motion.
Combined with
your wrist positioning, finger adjustments can
enhance your bowling ball motion even more.
These are the basic finger adjustments in bowling
Base Finger Position Your
index finger is spread comfortably, about half as
far as you can spread it wide away from your middle
finger. The pinkie finger is kept snuggled tight
against the ring finger.
The index
finger
position enhances ball revs, and the ball
experiences a smooth and early roll. The
smooth curved track enhances the predictability of
the ball roll, and is commonly used as a
"base" starting finger position.
The Wide Wide Index Finger
Spreading
your index finger as wide as comfortably placed
promotes ball revs, and an even earlier ball
reaction.
A wide spreading of the index finger will give a
stronger back end hooking reaction. The pinkie
finger is kept snuggled tight against the ring
finger.
Adjusting the
spread of the index finger in or out 1/2" at the
time can fine tune your ball reaction.
Tucking the Pinkie Finger
Tucking
the small finger (the pinkie) in reduces that
straightening effect of the pinkie, and enhances the
revving action of the spread index finger.
Caution is encouraged when tucking the pinkie.
Tucking
the small finger under increases pressure on the
ring finger, and results in additional revs.
This increases pressure can cause some discomfort or
pain over a long period of time if not used with
caution.
When laying out the ball, if the ring finger span is
laid out with a slightly shorter span, this can
reduce the possibility of discomfort or pain, but
may also reduce the enhanced revs of the ball gained
by the tucked pinkie.
Both Index and Pinkie Fingers Spread Spreading
both the index and pinkie fingers is the most common
finger position. Spreading the
index and pinkie finger results in
the same type of reaction as the wide index, but
stronger.
With the
index finger spread wide and the pinkie finger
spread wide, the ball revs early, and the resultant
ball action will be a weaker back end. The
ball reaction diminishes as it travels toward the
pins, resulting in weaker hooking action and pin
carry.
Pinkie Finger Spread
Spreading
the pinkie and keeping the index finger snuggled
tight against the middle finger places more
counter-revving pressure on the track side of the
ball.
The spread pinkie
finger position results in a higher track,
straighter ball with less hooking action. The
spread pinkie finger position, with the hand placed
directly behind the ball can result in straightening
out the path of the ball. By pointing your
pinkie finger toward the target enhances a resultant
straight ball path.
By
leaving the pinkie finger spread and snuggling the
index finger against the middle finger, results in
more end-over-end roll and takes the hook off the
ball. This finger adjustment can tame the
amount of hook on dry lanes or if you need to play
wet or long patterns and you need a direct ball
path.
Both Fingers Snuggled Against the Middle and
Ring Fingers
When
both the index and pinkie fingers are
placed next to the gripping fingers, the
ball reaction will be an enhanced angular reaction.
The ball will slide further down the
lane, raise the ball track higher and
hook harder. This finger placement
should be considered for use on dryer
lanes,
or you need to get the ball further down
the lane before it hooks.
The ball may feel less stable in your
hand, and practice using this technique
is important to achieve a consistent
delivery.
These are the basic finger adjustments in bowling. Combine these with
the various wrist
positions to enhance your bowling ball motion even
more.
Imagine if it happened to
you:
All of a sudden you find this thing on your wrist
and people are telling you it has powers.
I would listen a little more closely if I wanted to
be magic.
The wrist and fingers must be
educated.
Ball control is
simply thinking through your wrist and fingers.
Like fine art, the
finest ball control is found through the magic of
you fingers.
Bowler
Ball
& Pins
Home
Lanes
Information
Spreading
your index finger as wide as comfortably placed
promotes ball revs, and an even earlier ball
reaction.
Tucking
the small finger (the pinkie) in reduces that
straightening effect of the pinkie, and enhances the
revving action of the spread index finger.
When
both the index and pinkie fingers are
placed next to the gripping fingers, the
ball reaction will be an enhanced angular reaction.
The ball will slide further down the
lane, raise the ball track higher and
hook harder. This finger placement
should be considered for use on dryer
lanes